Troubleshooting Human Hair Extensions

Welcome to the definitive Doctored Locks Troubleshooting Guide. Please be advised that this guide is to help you troubleshoot issues for your clients. These are the same suggestions and guides that we use here for our clients. These are products and suggestions that have not only worked for us, but for several other hair extension installers. You can choose to take or leave our advice, but following these simple rules will help you and your clients have a more enjoyable extension experience.

KNOW YOUR CLIENT -
This is a biggie. Hair extensions are an investment. Your client will need to understand that they are to use only proper products and must commit to thoroughly detangling their hair at a minimum of twice daily. Clients whose hair is short often underestimate the amount of care that must go into longer hair. It will not be what they are used to. Also, clients who wish to change texture may have similar problems. Going curlier for the first time may pose similar issues.

*A word on hair selection: I have worn every type of hair imaginable. I have worn really poor quality hair and have swam in chlorine and abused it beyond belief. While I am not recommending this, I am saying that even lousy quality hair can stay manageable. The difference between high quality hair and poor quality hair is the AMOUNT of work needed to keep it manageable. If your client does not have a lot of time or want to devote to styling their hair, they will require the highest quality. Someone that is used to extension maintenance and is familiar with more demanding styles will be able to get on okay with lesser quality hair. If ever you are in doubt, select premium quality hair. Your client's experience will be much more satisfactory.

If you know your client cannot or will not commit time to maintain the hair, DO NOT under any circumstances take on that service. Doing so will result in unhappy and frustrated clients. This is your name and work that will be showcased on each client. Make sure all of your reviews are favorable ones.

TAKE PROPER CARE OF YOUR NEW HAIR -
Here are our basic aftercare instructions:

Again, please note, these products and methods are time tested. If you wish to deviate from our care sheet, please be aware that there are many "professional" products that do not work well with extension hair. We don't have a list of products that are unsuited as that list could be added to infinitely, but these are a few products that DO work very well.

Washing:
Detangle before washing.

Shampoo and condition with Redken Extreme or Redken Smooth Down. (We choose these products based on hair extension brand and type.)

Redken Extreme Antisnap and Smooth Down Heat Glide will help smooth, blend and tame the frizzies.

Washing the hair everyday isn’t necessary, every 2-3 days is best.

Product:
A bit of Redken Water Wax or Electric Wax will help smooth any transitions between natural hair and extension hair. Use a hot tool to make the blending seamless.

Curly hair will require mousse, spray gel or curl texturizer to keep it from becoming frizzy. Product for curly hair is NOT optional.

Brushing/Detangling:
Twice daily (this may be done in the morning and at the end of the day), use a pick or large toothed comb to remove major tangles. Next use a nylon bristle brush (boars bristles will be too soft and will not get through the hair) without any nubs. The bristles will need to be at alternating lengths. I cannot stress to you enough the importance of using the correct brush for this.

We have nylon bristle brushes in our brush section which are perfect. The looper brushes are not appropriate for these hair extensions. The loopers are better suited to synthetics or styles that require detangling in "clumps."

Sleeping:
Braid longer hair into 1-3 large braids. This will stop tangles that may occur while in bed.

COMMON PROBLEMS AND CAUSES -

TANGLING -
Short to long? Wavy to curly? These changes will result in having to alter your client's hair maintenance routine. They will NOT be used to it and it is your job to make sure that they know what additional work will be required - BEFORE THE INSTALLATION. Unexpected maintenance will be your #1 complaint.

Over conditioning is the most commonly reported cause for tangling. Clients often misjudge the cause of tangling and apply even more conditioner or smoothing products. This exaggerates the problem and leads to poor styling results and also a great deal of frustration. To correct the problem you will need to detangle the hair. Next you will need to remove all products from the hair. The method that you choose will need to be gentle to care for any delicate extension hair, but effective enough to remove build up. Once the build up is removed, condition with Redken Extreme, add a few drops of Heat Glide to make it glossy and make sure they have proper products to ensure that it does not happen again.

MATTING -
Matting occurs when previous tangles build up over time. Typically water is involved in some way compounding the problem. Hair does NOT mat in one sitting. Washing hair that has a bad case of the tangles may result in matted hair that is beyond fixing. Mats may be able to be removed, but it will take some effort. Before you go through the trouble of dematting, make sure that your client knows how to avoid the situation that got them there and has the commitment to proper products and detangling to keep it from happening again. If not, then do not attempt to detangle the installation, simply remove it.

Dematting will need to occur on dry hair only. Use a pick and start at the bottom. Do not add any products during this process. Work your way up to the roots. Try very hard not to pull on individual hairs. Shedding from wefts or bonds may occur if they are pulled. Once the tangles and mats have been removed, wash the hair thoroughly with Redken Extreme Shampoo add a few drops of Heat Glide. Make sure they have the proper information to ensure that this does not happen again.

SLIPPAGE -
Hair extension installations done properly should never slip. Please review your techniques and let us know if you have any questions about your specific method.

DRY, BRITTLE HAIR -
If the hair appears dry or brittle, switch to Redken Extreme products. These products add gentle moisture and proteins to the hair to help maintain shine and flexibility. Be careful not to over condition. Over conditioning leads to tangling, this will need to be addressed as a separate problem.

CHALKY FEELING -
Chalky or waxy build up may be a problem in areas with hard/ well water or it may be that the hair products that you have selected are creating build up. Use a gentle clarifying shampoo to remove build up once per week and then use Redken Extreme products to maintain the hair.