Coloring Human Hair Extensions

Coloring wefted hair for extensions before installation by Danielle Guercio

Iimportant things to consider!
-This is a technique I use for clients who's hair is too difficult to match or for custom -highlights/lowlights in a weft.
-You should always do a strand test!!! You don’t want to waste good hair on mistakes, or damage it by over-processing it.
-If hair is not of remi quality, you will have to color balance (sort of like a soap cap or bleach shampoo) to remove the chemicals that seal in the manufactured color.
-If hair is of remi quality, you will want to be a lot more gentle and conscious of the brand you use, the level you are aiming for, and the amount you color.
-I never recommend lifting manufactured hair; it strips it and makes it deteriorate faster.
-Where possible, use demi-permanent color, (Redken Shades EQ, PM Shines, Clairol Color Gloss, etc)

From here on out I will proceed as if we were treating non-remi color number 4(about a level 5 or 6) hair to make it a level 3 hair (as you should use a color ring to match to a client for remi instead of taking the chance of ruining the hair!)

Materials:
(I'm using Paul Mitchell because that is my preferred line of products, I also don’t like to mix color systems, and cleansing and styling are a different story)

• Shampoo One
• Dual Purpose Lightener
• Paul Mitchell the color 3N
• Paul Mitchell 10vol cream developer
• PM Shines Clear Shine
• PM Shines Processing Liquid
• Paul Mitchell Super Strong shampoo
• Joico K_Pak Reconstructurizer
• aluminum foil (on the roll like for a kitchen)
• gloves
• color bowl
• color brush
• measuring beaker
• color whisk
• piece of corrugated cardboard the length and width of the amount of hair you wish to color
• household stapler

Steps!
Prep:
Cover the cardboard with aluminum foil, this is so you can paint color onto the hair neatly and securely.

Color balance:
Mix equal parts shampoo one, dual purpose lightener, 10vol developer (must be cream!!!).
Apply directly in a sink and massage into hair.
Rinse as soon as you see a change in the color.
This is not to lighten, just to break up the artificial pigment to allow desired color to enter cortex of hair.

Proceed to shampoo out the mixture, and apply K-Pak for about 5 minutes, rinse.
If you have time, allow the hair to air dry, since this will put it in excellent condition for coloring, but if you are pressed for time slowly blow-dry with low heat and low intensity until it is about 80% dry. When depositing, color can be applied to slightly dampened hair.

Coloring:
-Mix equal parts color and developer until extremely creamy with uniform color.
-Using your gloves and color brush, paint the foil with a thin layer of the color leaving about 1.5" from the top.
-Lay one layer of 80% dry wefted hair onto layer of color.
-Loosely staple hair every 2 inches to the foil-covered cardboard directly onto the woven portion of the track, leaving about 1" from the top.
-Paint the color onto the wefted hair from the thread (but not on it) to the ends, being very careful to cover every portion of the hair.
-Reserve unused color
-Allow to process for 25 minutes, then take remaining color and feather it onto the thread of the weft.
-Take 1.5" portions of hair with color on it and twist into 'color dreads' making sure to rub color into any missed spots and saturate all the hair.
-Allow to process for the remaining 10 minutes.
-Remove from cardboard and thoroughly rinse and shampoo.
-Apply K-Pak, but not onto threaded portion, (any grease or buildup could cause any bonding to slip) and allow to remain on hair for 15 minutes and rinse.

Shining:
After installation, you can apply a demi permanent color glaze to the hair to intensify both the color of the manufactured hair and the natural hair. This can also be done with a clear shine to add protein, moisture, and shine to all of the hair after the installation process. this will also provide you with clean damp hair to perform your final style on.
-Mix equal parts PM Shines with processing liquid in an applicator bottle.
-Using small horizontal sections starting at the nape, apply mixture to both artificial and natural hair, avoiding any bonded areas, braided tracks, linkies, shrinkies, or keratin-bonded tips (the processing liquid or developer will break down the keratin glue just as it lifts the protein of hair to allow color to penetrate) and making sure to thoroughly saturate the areas where you apply it.
-Once product is applied, process for 20 minutes
-Do not use a hood dryer on the whole head unless you are working with linkies or braided tracks (heat will intensify the outcome, but if working with adhesive systems may cause your product to become unstable)
-Thoroughly rinse and follow with desired care products to shampoo and condition.

Style hair as desired!!!